The first recognizable commercial brand to tackle ‘natural’ was Aveda. Founded in 1978 by Horst Rechelbacher it integrated holistic thinking with Rechelbacher’s interest in products free from toxic chemicals. Since that time a lot of progress has been made in this field with a growing number of companies embracing the movement away from synthetic, harsh materials which were commonplace 30 years ago.

One trend that emerged was Sulfate-free shampoos. Sulfates (Sulphates) are surfactants and foaming agents, used in shampoos to clean the scalp and hair.

The common belief that more lather means cleaner hair has fueled the use of synthetic foaming agents such as Sulfates, often present in high concentrations. Sulfates are used in most liquid cleansers, including dishsoap or foaming bath products, as they share common ingredients and functionality. However, the main difference between shampoo and dishsoap is the secondary performance enhancing ingredients typically found in hair care. Hair care is formulated for specific hair types (e.g. fine, curly, straight, color treated) with active ingredients impacting the texture and condition of the hair.

While Sulfates are very good foaming agents, they have acquired a negative reputation in the hair and skin care marketplace due to their potential to cause irritation. As well, the efficiency with which they work can often result in the depletion of natural lipids (oils) in the hair and scalp causing both to become dry, brittle and flaky. When the scalp loses its natural oils, the sebaceous glands increase production, resulting in a lack of equilibrium. Sulfates can also damage the hair shaft, resulting in split ends and breakage.

To address concerns related to hair and scalp quality, surfactant manufacturers have developed alternatives which has resulted in an uptick in Sulfate-free shampoos. These ‘natural’, milder ingredients are less abrasive, resulting in softer hair with noticeable shine, as natural oils remain on the hair and scalp following cleansing.

Many of these new generation surfactants are natural origin. The most common of these are: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate; Cetyl Betaine; Coco-Betaine and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate.

These milder cleansing agents help lock in moisture; are less aggressive on color and curl treatments and are generally less likely to irritate the scalp. There are now many brands offering these shampoos which embody a natural, holistic approach to hair quality management.

The trade off with Sulfate-free shampoo is that it will not lather as effectively so you must adjust the way you wash your hair to get a good result. First, make sure the hair is fully wet, then dispense the shampoo into your palms, add water and create a mild foam before applying. Work the shampoo evenly through the scalp and hair ends, massaging gently with the fingertips to enhance distribution, then rinse thoroughly.

I encourage my clients to use Sulfate-free shampoos having seen noticeable improvements in hair and scalp condition with those who consistently use them.

Jay Yano, Master Stylist & Educator. As a salon owner, mentor and award winning stylist based in Vancouver, Jay has collaborated with industry leaders and independent salons, providing advanced styling techniques and salon marketing expertise.

Your skin is the largest organ in your body and has an important job as a barrier to infection and environmental factors.  Adopting a great skin care regime and regular treatments at a spa or dermatology office will help to maintain healthy over-all skin.

When you take care of your skin with a proper regime that includes treatments, you are helping prevent future problems such as wrinkles, fine lines and uneven skin tone, to name a few. Treatments are designed to remove toxins, dead skin cells, oil, dirt and address skin issues, while helping slow down the effects of aging. Treatments enhance and improve circulation, increase collagen and result in a more youthful looking appearance.

The full cycle of the skin’s new cell turnover is approximately 28 days.  Taking that into consideration, it is recommended to have your treatment done every 4 to 6 weeks until your concerns have been addressed.  Depending on how many treatments you have, you will notice a change in the clarity, elasticity and texture of your skin. 

The key to getting the most out of skin treatments is the proper choice of treatment. Choosing the right one depends on the type of treatment, your skin type, and what results you are looking for.  The following are just a few of the great treatments available to you.

MICRODERMABRASION

Microdermabrasion is a safe, non-invasive procedure using fine crystals that help to remove dead skin cells and renew skin tone and texture.  It is known to improve the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, acne scarring and melasma by stimulating blood flow and improving cell production.  It also improves the effectiveness of at-home care skincare product penetration.  Most will notice improvement after one session, however it is recommended to get a series of treatments for longer results.

Microdermdermabrasion is not recommended for use with deep scarring or any kind of open wounds on the face.

CHEMICAL PEELS

Chemical peels remove the outer layer of the skin and encourage the growth of new, more evenly colored skin.  They are typically a choice if you are looking for an anti-aging and rejuvenating option.  They are used to address acne scarring, age spots, dull skin and discoloration. There are a number of options to choose from that range from superficial, moderate or deep, depending on the kinds of acids used. With a lighter peel, you may require no down time whereas a deep peel may take up to a week or more for full healing.  Chemical peels will involve one or more acids such as glycolic, salicylic, lactic, or phenol.  You may feel a burning sensation that typically subsides after 10 minutes.    Depending on the peel used, you will notice a reaction similar to a sunburn.  Peeling may occur within 3 to 5 days after treatment.  Mild peels can be re-done 1 to 4 weeks after your initial treatment if need be.  Medium peels may require a healing period of 7 to 15 days, and can be repeated after 6 to 12 months if necessary.  After a chemical peel your skin will be more sensitive to sun, so wear a sunscreen of at least SPF30 or higher. 

LED LIGHT THERAPY

Light emitting diode (LED) light therapy is a non-invasive treatment that has multiple benefits—such as  stimulating collagen and elastin production, treating mild to moderate acne, reduce inflammation and speeding up the recovery process from more aggressive laser treatments.  In short, LED therapy, by working with the skin, encourages its own natural healing process.  LED light therapy is safe and painless, without any side effects.  Using varying wavelengths of light, including red and blue.  Both are highly effective and it is recommended that you have your procedure done every month or two.

• Red Light Therapy

Red light LED is anti-inflammatory (great for healing!) and is used to help stimulate collagen and elastin production, thus it is often used for its anti-aging benefits to the skin. When performed,  it is applied to the skin and the epidermis absorbs the light and stimulates collagen.  The more collagen your skin has, the more your skin will appear plump and smoother, as it can reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles.  Red light also helps to retain moisture as well as improve overall skin tone.

• Blue Light Therapy

Blue light LED works to kill bacteria that lives below the surface of the skin responsible for acne.  You can incorporate red and blue light therapy together to help treat acne and also heal at the same time.

Often times, bluelight (kills bacteria) is used in conjunction with red light (heals the skin) to help treat acne, decrease scarring, and promote anti-inflammatory effects.

LASER RESURFACING

Laser resurfacing uses high-intensity pulsating beams of light to improve the appearance of sun-damage, scars, fine lines and wrinkles.  Resurfacing is known to stimulate collagen production, tighten the skin and balance tone. Treatments vary in effectiveness based on superficial to deep treatments.  Because your skin is hypersensitive to sun exposure after having resurfacing done, it is recommended to perform these treatments in the later part of the year (fall or winter), when daytime hours are shorter.  However, always wear a sunscreen of at least SPF30 or higher.  There are many laser resurfacing treatments available.  Since there is no one laser treatment that can help all of a patient’s skin concerns in that treatment.

Laser resurfacing can be ablative (removes top layer of the skin, creating a wound to promote healthy healing) or non-ablative (non-wounding, stimulates collagen growth and tightening of the skin).  Ablative is considerably more effective and requires fewer treatments.  It does, however, require a longer recovery period and there is a potential for pigment.  Non-ablative does no direct damage to the outer skin layer, making it less invasive.  It is said to treat more superficial issues and you may need 3 to 6 treatments.

Depending on how aggressive your treatment is, downtime can be anywhere from one to fifteen days.  Laser resurfacing is not highly recommended if you have active acne or darker skin (can cause pigment issues).  Full results will be apparent at about 3 to 6 months.

• CO₂ Laser Resurfacing (ablative)

A common type of laser resurfacing treatment, CO₂ uses carbon dioxide to treat issues such as wrinkles, scars and enlarged oil glands, removing thin, deep layers of the skin.  CO₂ treatments can also resurface the face and remove aging spots, sun damage and scarring caused by acne.  An ultra-pulse beam eliminates damaged skin cells and stimulates new collagen production below the skin’s surface.  There  is no need for additional appointments as results continue months after your first treatment.

• Erbium Resurfacing (ablative and non-ablative)

A common type of laser resurfacing treatment, Erbium removes surface-level age spots, lines and wrinkles, and is the choice for those wanting to achieve dramatic improvement in skin appearance. It also promotes collagen and tightening of the skin. There is minimal burning of the surrounding tissue, so recovery time is shorter than with CO₂.  For those with darker skin tone, Erbium is your best bet, as this treatment is less invasive than CO₂.

After any skin treatment, it is important that you choose skincare with quality ingredients to ensure you are getting the best benefits for your skin.  Consult your skincare professional to set up the best regime for your skin type.

Tiffany Mosley
Senior Client Service Representative
Vitelle Labs

Raw Cacao

Chocolate lovers rejoice! Consuming chocolate that contains at least 70% cacao is great for the skin. Cacao is not the same as its sugar laden counterpart cocoa. Cacao is a purer form of chocolate and much less processed than cocoa powder. Dark chocolate is full of anti-oxidants, which help fight free radical damage. Free radicals can cause premature aging. Keep in mind when selecting a dark chocolate that the higher the cacao percentage, the higher the antioxidant content. Choose the highest percentage you can while still enjoying your chocolate.

Berries

Berries especially blueberries, strawberries and raspberries and are a high source of Vitamin C which is critical for collagen formation. Collagen is one of the components that keeps the skin firm and smooth. A lack of collagen can cause the skin to sag and develop wrinkles. Berries are also among the fruits that have the lowest sugar content. Excess sugar even from natural sources can cause insulin to spike within the body. Excess insulin can exacerbate skin conditions like acne.

Wild Salmon

Wild salmon contains omega 3 fatty acids, which help fight inflammation within the body. Many skin conditions are linked to inflammation including eczema and psoriasis. Omega 3’s also help moisturize from the inside out keeping the skin looking vibrant and supple.

Leafy Greens

Leafy greens are chocked full of vitamins and minerals to promote healthy glowing skin. Eating your greens also helps to support the proper functioning of the liver which aids in detoxification. If the liver is over loaded with toxins the skin tries to pick up the slack as a secondary path for toxins to leave body. This can result in skin conditions including acne.

Yams and Sweet Potatoes

Yams and sweet potatoes are rich in beta carotene which converts to Vitamin A in the body. Vitamin A aids with cell and tissue growth, which is essential for glowing skin. Vitamin A has also been known to help prevent sun damage, which is one of the main causes of aging skin.

Deanna Cocchia

Office Manager, Licensed Esthetician

Vitelle Labs

With the advancements and innovation in the laser based treatments, practices have a wide range of devices to choose from. There is often a tendency to rely on devices alone to enhance skin condition but there are other ways to set your practice apart. During a consultation, you suggest a treatment plan for the patient which includes a range of in-clinic treatments. Patients are often eager to book appointment(s) for the recommended treatment, however in many cases their skin is not in its optimal condition to most benefit from the laser (or treatment) prescribed. Pretreatment homecare can play a vital role in an outstanding end result.

Before a professional painter begins painting, they usually prepare the canvas by priming it to create a solid foundation. With the same concept in mind, it is a fundamental step to have your patient’s skin prepped and primed before preforming any aesthetic procedure. Pre-treatment can involve a topical homecare regime or an in-clinic treatment such as chemical peels or microdermabrasion. Pre-treatment prepares the skin for what is to come while adding nutrients necessary for repair. When you perform a procedure on your patient, you want the skin to be in its healthiest condition because healthy skin responds better to treatment. Pre-treatment regimes will vary depending on your patient’s skin type and the in-clinic treatment being performed. This valuable step sets the tone for the patient’s journey with you and your team. Tailoring a customized treatment plan for your patient adds that “special touch” that enhances their overall experience and shows you care about them.

Patient demand for non-surgical, non-invasive, minimal downtime aesthetic procedures has grown exponentially in recent years. With this in mind, it is recommended to inform your clients how they can reduce undesirable outcomes and accelerate post-operative healing. The goal of any pre-treatment regime is to optimize healing and reduce the risk of infection, scarring and hyperpigmentation. Several studies have convincingly demonstrated that pretreatment with retinoids before laser resurfacing treatments speeds wound healing ¹, by increasing keratinization and collagen production. Retinoids have also been shown to decrease the risk for postoperative milia and hyperpigmentation, as well as allowing better penetration of the laser beam².

For decades, aesthetic laser devices were recommended exclusively for lighter skin tones, due to the high risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation to skin types 4 and above. Technological advancements and the emergence of new devices and better ways of using existing devices have resulted in laser treatments becoming more accessible to a broader range of skin types. That said, even with these advancements, PIH is still one of the biggest complications experienced from laser treatments, thus making preventative measures highly necessary to mitigate this issue. Prior to treatments, mineral SPF 30+ and other cosmeceuticals containing tyrosine inhibitors such as Azelaic Acid, Kojic Acid, Arbutin, some Peptides and Licorice Root have become sought after ingredients by aesthetic professionals to suppress melanin production pathways. Pre-treatment with topical actives should begin several weeks prior to treatment as these actives require time to take effect. Other changes in homecare such as discontinuing the use of retinoids and other photosensitive, are also recommended immediately preceding in-clinic treatments.

Achieving and maintaining optimal skin health is the cornerstone of any aesthetic procedure and should be seen as the goal for all professional practices. Approaching treatments from a holistic perspective, considering what is needed prior to, during and post treatment will greatly improve outcomes that will reflect well on your cosmetic practice and patient relationships. Helping your patients achieve the results they are looking for in the sensible way where skin health is the core, will likely result in a happy, long-term patient who leaves your practice with a desire to return.

1.   J Am Acad Dermatol. 1998 Aug;39(2 Pt 3):S79-81. The role of retinoids in wound healing

2. Lupo MP, Jacob LG. Cosmeceuticals for enhancing cosmetic procedures. In: Farris PK, ed. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice. Oxford, United Kingdom: Wiley-Blackwell; 2014:268-276

What I have come to find out is that while it’s true I will be dealing with pigment the rest of my life, instead of just accepting my fate I can help combat the appearance of my pigment – and stop future pigment – by adopting a proper skin care regimen.  If you cannot afford many of the expensive procedures out there, a proper regimen can help you tremendously.

The root cause of pigmentation is very hard to determine.  There are so many factors related to pigmentation:  from sun exposure, to stress, to hormonal imbalance, to melasma.  Sometimes it is extremely hard to find out what where your own pigmentation comes from.  But whatever the cause, pigmentation can cause emotional stress to the person who suffers from it.

Reaching my 30’s I started to get what is called the ‘pregnancy mask’ after my son was born.  The pigmentation spread from one little spot to my entire forehead, above my lip line and on my cheeks.  I would hide the pigment on my forehead in a number of ways.  I did this for over 10 years before I started to research alternatives.  What I found was there are many ingredients that will help brighten the skin and prevent future pigmentation.  From my own experience I found a number of ingredients offer brightening effects which have reduced my pigmentation over 80%, after using them for about a year and a half.  And although I still have pigment, I hold my head high and hide nothing on my face.   If you suffer from this type of skin care challenge, you might appreciate what a huge step in the right direction this is.

The key is consistency in using quality skincare which has pigment lightening ingredients. Look for products that contain one or a combination of ingredients which are effective yet safe. I prefer ingredients that are plant-derived extracts which in addition to brightening the skin also provide nourishment.  It is extremely important to take steps to prevent future pigmentation.  Always, ALWAYS use a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 on a daily basis to minimize the amount of UV rays that penetrate your skin.

My top ingredient picks!

Arbutin – Arbutin is considered a natural skin brightener and an alternative to hydroquinone.  It inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme, which is involved in pigment production.

Kojic Acid – Kojic Acid is a skin lightening agent that targets melanin production.  Melanin determines the color of pigment in the skin.  Kojic Acid blocks tyrosine from forming, effectively preventing the production of melanin.  Kojic Acid helps to gradually fade discoloration caused by sun, natural aging and other causes.

Ferulic Acid – Ferulic is a highly sought-after anti-oxidant which can help to neutralize free radicals and prevent UV-induced sun damage.

Niacinamide – Niacinamide, a form of Vitamin B3, helps to balance skin tone by slowing down the transfer of melanin. Niacinamide also is considered an excellent skin conditioner as it offers a wide range of benefits.

Above all, patience and consistency is essential in dealing with your pigmentation.  Adopt a solid skincare regime, using ingredients you’ve researched to help with your unique challenges, and you will be surprised what a difference you can get!

Tiffany Mosley
Senior Client Service Representative
Vitelle Labs

Like an astronaut’s space suit or a diver’s wetsuit our skin acts like a layer of protection from outside harm. Unfortunately, our skin has vulnerabilities from external and internal sources, factors that can affect how it matures and its overall appearance. External factors such as sunlight and air pollution and internal factors like Glycation (AGEs) can lead to tissue damage resulting in wrinkles and sagging or discolored skin. This process is called oxidative stress which has serious consequences such as inflammation, diminished collagen and elastin and premature aging. Often the oxidative process results in the skin’s diminished capacity to repair itself. Just as we try to help our slowing metabolism by eating right and exercising regularly, our skin needs support too.

Growth Factors were first discovered in the 1980’s by Dr. Rita Levi-Mantalcini and Dr. Stanley Cohen who were awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for their discovery of Epidermal Growth Factors. Their research has had a major impact on our understanding of human growth and cellular reproduction.

Stem cells are the foundational cells that are still found within different types of tissue in adults. Stem cells communicate by producing and releasing proteins called cytokines and growth factors. When these proteins are released they bind to specific receptors on cell membranes, activating signaling pathways involved in cell growth and proliferation,1 decreasing excess tissue inflammation,2 forming new blood vessels,3 and stimulating production of skin matrix components4. Think of this process as a lock and key mechanism. When a key is placed into a lock and it clicks, the cells are activated to perform like young healthy cells. As we age, the key mechanism becomes rusty. The production of these proteins begins to deplete, causing the stem cells in our bodies to receive less support. The skin’s ability to repair from daily environmental stressors and heal wounds deteriorates resulting in skin damage and visible signs of aging such as: fine lines; wrinkles; age spots; loss of elasticity and uneven skin texture. Topical Growth Factors are outstanding ingredients that combat the natural aging process by protecting and fortifying dermal stem cells.

One of the first areas to benefit from the 1980’s discovery was the use of Growth Factors for wound repair in medical situations due to their strong regenerative capacity. Soon after cosmetic formulators began working with growth factors in the hope of delivering the same powerful results to consumers that had already been achieved in medicine. The efficacy of growth factors for skin rejuvenation has been affirmed in multiple studies,5 and has paved the way to the release of a wide range of cosmetic products which contain these restorative ingredients.
There are many different types of Growth Factors found in the body, each having various functions on different cell types. Knowing which ones play a key role in supporting skin health can seem a bit daunting, but just as there isn’t one healthy food to eat, there isn’t one single ingredient solution for aging and other skin care concerns. Growth Factors work best and most effectively when they are paired up with other growth factors and used synergistically. Like with most things it is all about balance, the effectiveness of the product is based on the skill of the formulator, quality and potency of the ingredients.

Due to advancements in biotechnology over the past decade, there are now multiple sources of Growth Factors. They can be derived from different human cells, extracted from blood (Platelet Rich Plasma) or created from non-human botanical sources.

Epidermal growth factor (EFG):  Works mainly on the outermost layer of the skin (epidermas) and has the ability to repair skin damage and increase the production of new skin cells.

Fibroblast growth factor: Supports the production of collagen and elastin that gives skin its tensile strength and elasticity.

Insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1): Supports the formation of new blood vessels which enhances the delivery of oxygen and nutrients, improving skin health.

Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF): Supports the inflammatory response system by stimulating the formation of blood vessels.

In recent times aesthetic professionals have been pairing rejuvenating skin treatments with cosmetic Growth Factor products. After certain aesthetic treatments, such as ablative or non-ablative laser device treatments, there can be a period of downtime for the patient. In-office procedures can accelerate recovery and efficacy with a post-care regimen of a topical Growth Factor product applied to the treated area as it can revitalize damaged tissue, promote healing and reduce downtime.

One popular aesthetic treatment currently is Collagen Induction Therapy where the use of a Growth Factor serum enhances its efficacy. The controlled micro-injury caused during the treatment stimulates the production of new collagen and elastin. Superficial micro-channels created by the device during treatment enhance the delivery of topicals, such as Growth Factor serums, which stimulate and elevate fibroblasts within the skin.

Topical Growth Factor products are not only for professional applications, they can be used daily to keep fibroblasts robust and support resilience within skin structure. In a recent clinical study conducted over a four week period, a topical plant-derived Growth Factor serum (containing EGF, FGF, IGF-1, VEGF ), was used by a group of women aged 43-50. They noticed a 46% decrease in wrinkles under the eyes and a 21% reduction in the appearance of crow’s feet. Skin elasticity improved by 47% and moisturization increased by 83% immediately following application of the product and overall by 64% by the conclusion of the study. 6

While not as widely known as Peptides, Growth Factors have been used in the medical market for many years and in the last decade have surged in popularity in the result-driven professional skincare market. If you are looking for a non-invasive corrective boost to your daily skincare regimen, you should consider products which contain the regenerative benefits of Growth Factors.

References

1. Bhora FY, Dunkin BJ, Batzri S, et al. Effect of Growth Factors on cell proliferation and epithelialization in human skin. J Surg Res. 1995;59(2):236-44.
2. Pastore S, Mascia F, Mariani V, et al. The epidermal Growth Factor receptor system in skin repair and inflammation. J Invest Dermatol. 2008;128(6):1365-74.
3. Johnson KE, Wilgus TA. Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor and Angiogenesis in the Regulation of Cutaneous Wound Repair. Adv Wound Care (New Rochelle). 2014;3(10):647-61.
4. Schultz GS, Wysocki A. Interactions between extracellular matrix and Growth Factors in wound healing. Wound Repair Regen. 2009;17(2):153-62.
5. Ueda M. A novel approach for skin rejuvenation by regenerative medicine: delivery of stem cell-derived Growth Factors through an iontophoretic system. Int J Oral Maxillofac Implants. 2014; 29(1):e59-65. doi: 10.11607/jomi.te43.
6. http://www.independentchemical.com/adminimg/productpdf/15415739261544256163bio-placenta.pdf

Consumers may not know what HA is exactly but they definitely want it in their products. As the demand for hyaluronic acid grows for both the professional and non-professional markets its good to gain a deeper understanding of this popular ingredient and why it’s so desirable.

Most skin care users don’t realize there are actually several different sizes of hyaluronic acid molecules and a wide array of ingredients that seek to mimic the benefits of HA. There often are misconceptions surrounding the function of hyaluronic acid, how it performs and why it is consider beneficial for virtually all skin types.

In this short article I will discuss the attributes of hyaluronic acid so you are better prepared the next time you are looking for products which contain HA or asked about this ingredient by your customers.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that attracts and retains water. It is a type of polysaccharide called a, glycosaminoglycan, which is found naturally in human tissues such as: skin; connective tissue; synovial fluid in our joints and in our eye balls. It serves many functions including hydrating our skin and hair, lubricating to reduce friction in our joints and behaving like a shock absorber to stabilize joints and tissues. It is produced mainly by both fibroblasts and keratinocytes.

One of its main functions, where skincare is concerned, is to hold the water in the intercellular matrix of the connective tissue. This water-binding capacity (hygroscopic) contributes significantly to the elasticity of the skin. Hyaluronic acid effectively regulates and distributes water maintaining elasticity by acting as a natural reservoir. Hyaluronic acid is also involved in the process of tissue repair

Any discussion of HA would not be complete without the mention of its molecule size. While the HA found in human skin is of a medium molecular weight, when it comes to products sold in the professional skincare market it can be found in a range of sizes.
HA is measured in Daltons (kDa), which measures atomic mass, one Dalton is equal to 1/12th the mass of carbon-12. From as low as 50 kDa to 1500 kDa, there are generally five size ranges and their respective weight is directly connected to their function and benefits.
In very general terms the larger the molecule the less it penetrates the skin. High weight HA (1000-1500+ kDa) is excellent for moisturizing and providing a protective film against trans epidermal water loss. Medium weight 600-1000 kDa helps to increase skin smoothness to the touch, it also hydrates and protects from dehydration by creating a non-occlusive film at the surface of the epidermis. When we move into the low and ultra-low weight HA 50 – 300 kDa you will experience deeper benefits as the HA has an easier time passing into the skin. This enhances the skin conditioning benefit and the deep dermis hygroscopic properties.

You may have heard of the 500 Dalton Rule and why it’s relevant to HA. The rule says that only molecules that are less than 500 Daltons in weight are able to penetrate healthy skin. As a result of the Dalton Rule professionals are using a variety of tools and devices such as rollers, needling, dermaplaning, derma pen etc., to help enhance penetration of larger molecule HA into the skin.
There is no doubt that Hyaluronic acid is very effective at preventing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). It is ideally suited to slow the rate at which water evaporates from the surface of the skin by collecting and holding on to it. This provides many positive benefits such as smoother looking skin, increased elasticity, a decrease in the severity of fine lines, enhanced barrier function and accelerated restoration of natural hydration levels.

Many clients ask me which size of HA is best? My personal preference is products that contain more than one size of HA as this type of product synergistically provides a wider range of benefits. For example, a blend of ultra-low and high weight HA can deliver two distinctive outcomes, maximum topical hydration and intensive deeper skin smoothing and wrinkle reduction. I also favor HA that elevate elasticity and smoothing of rough skin as most of my clients are looking for that type of result.

When it comes to recognizing Hyaluronic acid you may find it listed in a number of different ways on an ingredient label. Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycosaminoglycan (Hyaluronan), Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Phyto (or plant derived) Hyaluronate. Some of these names indicate the source of the HA as it is produced in a number of ways. Traditionally the most common sources were from a chicken’s/rooster’s comb as it has a very high concentration of hyaluronic acid. In response to the growing demand for non-animal origin ingredients we are seeing an abundance of natural derived HA from bio-fermentation of yeast, glucose and inorganic salts.

Performance of the hyaluronic acid is remarkably similar from both animal and biotechnological sources, but from our observation the trend has definitely moved toward plant form as it supports a more holistic green lifestyle choice.

Performance of the hyaluronic acid is remarkably similar from both animal and biotechnological sources, but from our observation the trend has definitely moved toward plant form as it supports a more holistic green lifestyle choice.
There is little doubt that Hyaluronic acid is and will continue to be a desirable ingredient. Its ability to deliver water-based hydration makes it an ideal candidate for skincare products for most skin types. With so many possible applications and a wide range of benefits, Hyaluronic acid, is certainly one of our superstar ingredients!

Written by:
Aleks Vranicic, L.E.
VP Sales & Technical Training
Vitelle Labs

Both protein and peptides are chains of amino acids, with peptides being of smaller size (less than 50 amino acids) than proteins. During cellular communication, signalling proteins/peptides act as messengers to regulate cellular machinery. The whole chain, however, is often not required; a small, key part of the molecule is sufficient to pass on the message. One can imagine the whole protein/peptide as a messenger, and this key part as the letter to be delivered – as long as the letter arrives, the message had been conveyed.

These ”letters”, often only 3 – 10 amino acids long, are the “bioactive peptides”. Bioactive peptides can perform a plethora of different functions, including boosting collagen production and skin elasticity, smoothing wrinkles, reducing pigmentation, alleviating inflammation and rosacea, improving acne-prone skin and much more.

Before we continue, it is important to distinguish bioactive peptides from protein hydrolysates such as hydrolyzed collagen or soy protein, commonly marketed as peptide ingredients in skin-care. Hydrolyzed proteins are protein molecules broken down into smaller amino acid chains. While technically peptides, they are a mish-mash of amino acids – a far cry from active peptides, which are very specific sequences. The random peptide mix may have some moisture retaining effect, as peptides tend to form films on the skin. However, they do not offer the extensive range of benefits that active peptides do.

So how are these active peptides identified and chosen for use in the beauty industry? Often, the base protein is first isolated from basic research which focuses on cell signalling. This was first inspired by research into wound healing, where peptides resulting from damaged tissue protein was found to trigger collagen synthesis (Tran KT, 2004).

A more colorful example involves the identification of a 22 amino acid peptide from Wagler’s pit viper venom. This peptide causes paralysis by interfering with nicotinic acetylcholine receptors at the muscle-nerve junction (Molles BE, 2002), and a synthetic peptide was produced to mimic the toxin. This active peptide is currently marketed as Syn-StarTM, and claims to inhibit muscle contraction through a Botox-like effect – without an injection. Other well-known examples are collagen stimulating Palmitoyl-pentapeptide-3, the active ingredient in MatrixylTM and wrinkle reducing Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, the active ingredient in ArgirelineTM (Blanes-Mira, Blanes-Mira, C). While some of the peptides’ effects have been well proven (Jones RR, 2013), newer peptides are still in need of independent studies to better substantiate their claim. Overall, however, the field of active peptides look very promising.

Initially there were some concerns about the use of active peptides in the skin care industry. Firstly, amino acid compounds gladly mingle with water but have difficulty playing nice with lipids. This makes it difficult for peptides to penetrate the stratum corneum, which consists of a lipid matrix, in order to reach its target audience: the dermis. This issue has largely been resolved by advancements in delivery technology, which include carrier liposomes or attachment of lipid tails to peptides to make active peptides partially lipid- soluble, and carrier solvents such as ethoxydiglycol to enhance penetration.

A second issue is that the peptides may have a systematic effect once they enter the blood stream travelling to, and causing undesirable effects throughout, the body. Paradoxically, this issue is resolved by another perceived weakness, that peptides are rapidly metabolized by naturally occurring enzymes. The human body is full of active enzymes which carry out biological functions, and act as a defence system against microbial infections. This results in these stray peptides being swiftly ”mopped- up” so all that remains is the intended localized effect. But it’s worth adding the caution here, “Your Peptides May Vary”!

Another concern stems from the highly specific nature of the peptides. The specificity necessitates synthetic production in order to be viable, which would appear to skyrocket the cost of production, along with raising concerns that they are “not natural”.A more colorful example involves the identification of a 22 amino acid peptide from Wagler’s pit viper venom. This peptide causes paralysis by interfering with nicotinic acetylcholine receptors at the muscle-nerve junction (Molles BE, 2002), and a synthetic peptide was produced to mimic the toxin. This active peptide is currently marketed as Syn-StarTM, and claims to inhibit muscle contraction through a Botox-like effect – without an injection. Other well-known examples are collagen stimulating Palmitoyl-pentapeptide-3, the active ingredient in MatrixylTM and wrinkle reducing Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, the active ingredient in ArgirelineTM (Blanes-Mira, Blanes-Mira, C). While some of the peptides’ effects have been well proven (Jones RR, 2013), newer peptides are still in need of independent studies to better substantiate their claim. Overall, however, the field of active peptides look very promising.

If manufactured properly, however, the peptides would be of high purity. As mentioned earlier, this improves efficiency, meaning only a miniscule amount, often in the micromolar range (0.001wt%), is required to effective (Lintner K, 2000). Also, the cascading machinery of cell signaling frequently results in an extended, enhanced effect from just a small amount of ligand/signal (Alberts, 2014). Furthermore, the purity and specificity of these peptides allow combination for synergistic action, such as broad spectrum anti-acne formulations, combining anti-inflammatory peptides with bacterial-debris neutralizing peptides.

It should be noted that synthetically produced active peptides are bio-memetic, ie. they are designed to mimic what a human body would produce naturally. They undergo extensive testing before being released to the marketplace which is desirable.
With their safety, high efficacy and flexibility, active peptides constitute an important part of a formulator’s tool kit. As new data emerges from research, it will be fascinating to see what new options and opportunities lie ahead.

References
Alberts, B. (2014). Molecular Biology of the Cell 5th Edition. New York, NY: Garland Science, Taylor and Francis Group.
Blanes-Mira, C. (Blanes-Mira, C, Int J Cosmet Sci Int J Cosmet Sci). A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci, 24(5), 303–10. Retrieved 6 13, 2017, from Blanes-Mira, C
Jones RR, C. V. (2013). Collagen stimulating effect of peptide amphiphile C16- KTTKS on human fibroblasts. Molecular Pharmacology, 10(3):1063-9.
Lintner K, P. O. (2000). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22(3):207-18.
Molles BE, T. I. (2002). Residues in the epsilon subunit of the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor interact to confer selectivity of waglerin-1 for the alpha-epsilon subunit interface site. Biochemistry, 41(25):7895-906.
Tran KT, G. L. (2004). Extracellular matrix signaling through growth factor receptors during wound healing. Wound Repair and Regeneration, 12(3):262-8.

David Cheng, M.Sc.
Research & Formulation Chemist Vitelle Labs